Despite my determination to get into sport climbing this summer, I just cant seem to shake my love for bouldering….could be that I recently returned from my third trip to Font this year!
I’m more psyched than ever for bouldering having climbed two 7b boulder problems in the last few weeks…one in Fontainbleau- ‘Le Mandarin sans convention’ and one on my local sandstone – ‘Maybe When your Older’. Super chuffed!
Here is a video of ‘Maybe When your Older’ which was a special route for me to repeat as it was originally put up by best friend Ben Read.
As I previously mentioned in blog 1, i’ve been on a bit of a mission to do a one armer by my 26th birthday; this has now been and gone and this video shows how close I got. I am really happy with this achievement not only because I pretty much did my one armer but because I increased my lock off strength (one of my weakest links) and most importantly did so injury free.
During this training period I had been asked to trial a new antagonistic training product called Powerfingers. It is designed to even out the imbalance created by constantly pulling when climbing to prevent the occurrence of elbow and finger injuries. Basically, when we climb we over use our agonist (pull) muscles like our biceps and fore arms. We must therefore balance our bodies out by working our triceps, wrist and finger extensors. Powerfingers is perfect for identifying weaknesses in antagonist finger and wrist strength and subsequently can be used to strengthen these weaknesses to prevent injuries occurring.
The pack contains 5 different resistance bands combining to provide over 125 different options to work with, whether rehabilitating or strengthening to prevent injury.
If I was going to get an elbow injury, training one armers and lock of strength, then going to Font was going to be the time, but with a little time spent doing antagonistic training using Powerfingers and doing triceps dips to even out my biceps I have remained completely injury free (and did a 7b in Font on my birthday 😉 )
After proving its worth during this period of training I am proud to now be a signed Powerfingers athlete, along with the legend himself, Gaz Parry.
I see this product as a way to PREVENT injuries such as golfers elbow occurring. This is such a common problem that cripples nearly every climber at some point in their careers, it is so unnecessary and hopefully can be a thing of the past with the use of this simple but effective product.
To get your own set and watch mine and Gaz’s testimonial videos please follow this link and make the most of our climbers discount: http://powerfingers.co.uk/products/climbing
Feel free to email me at firstname.lastname@example.org if you have any questions on how to most effectively use this product. Videos showing the best techniques will shortly be available. Though this is a very gently, low resistant product if you feel any pain or discomfort please see a physio to check you are using it correctly.
Eccentric lower-offs are a really effective way to increase your concentric (pulling) strenght. Try to ease the weight off your lower arm and slowly control the lower down.
Once you’ve mastered the type writers (see blog #1&2) a rope with three knots in it comes in handy. When you can do at least 6 solid pull ups on both sides on the 1st knot move down to the 2nd knot and so on. By the time you have got strong enough to do 6 each side on knot 3 your getting close!
Ensure this training is supplemented with LOTS of antagonistic training to avoid elbow injuries. Press ups and tricep dips are good if you have no props/weights. There are lots of great articles on antagonistic training on the internet so I won’t go into it.
Remember climbing is the best way to train for climbing this is just a challenge 🙂